Camped at a quiet beach 2 miles north of Fukaura station. A great location: green grass slopes behind, craggy red cliffs on either side and bloody red pebbles and green bushes loaded with red rosehip berries on the seashore in front. Only one noisy neighbour: the Japan Sea, she didn`t shut up all night.
The beach is at Yukiaizaki, (Passing Point), which gets its name either from where the cold yamase wind blowing from the north meets the warm Noshiro Dashi from the south, or from where the trade ships between Hokkaido and Kansai passed each other.
Passing Point A pretty young woman gathering seaweed found a starving, shipwrecked sailor on this beach. She nursed him back to health, visiting everyday. Then one day he left for Hokkaido. She returned everyday to look for him, crying so much she turned into a rock. Passing sailors used to look out hopefully for her.
Well I camped at Passing Point for two nights, during which I got quite peckish at times, yet I did not get as much as a turban shell.
I`m not bitter at all, just having a little brood.
Took first tentative steps towards Robinson Crusoe in putting together a washing line to dry my socks. I carefully selected a suitable stick from the beach.
Also took first tentative steps towards madness by humming the tune to Sing Josannah. All Play and No Work makes Tom go crazy.
The crash of waves and the uyamuya of the crows was the only noise. Until the town tannoy came on, echoing through the hills. “All elementary school kids please go home now. It`s 5pm. Time to get ready for tomorrow!” Half an hour later, the next town along`s tannoy came on with the Brownie`s Let`s Go to Bed Song. Tannoy announcements are so disruptive. Even the sea must get pissed off with them sometimes.
Nighttime was not so much fun. An hour of vivid hallucinations with angry crows climbing into my tent and enormous waves crashing over me. And no sign of any maidens bearing seaweed either.