Monthly Archives: September 2013

42 Shimokita: The long, winding road to Buddha

My breakfast was handed to me off the back off a truck: 3 scallops freshly reeled in from Mutsu Bay.  In the early morning sunshine I had gate-crashed the scallop harvest; a row of flatbed trucks were overflowing with scallop all grown on lines dangled in the ocean.  Bits of blue … Continue reading

Posted in Uncategorized | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

41 Shimokita: Holy help

Breakfast, brunch and lunch was at a michi no eki, road station.  Road stations reflect their surroundings, usually being staffed by locals and selling local produce. Both locals and visitors use the road stations, a sign they are doing something right.  … Continue reading

Posted in Uncategorized | 2 Comments

40 Shimokita: Entering the axe peninsula

I bought a bicycle in Noheji, at the bottom of the axe-shaped Shimokita peninsula.  The bike would give me freedom to explore.  Public transport on Shimokita is limited , not even the donko local trains make it up to Oma, the tuna … Continue reading

Posted in Uncategorized | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

39 Cape Tappi: Easy ride to the flying dragon

No public transport goes along the final 20km of the west coast road to Cape Tappi (Flying Dragon).  I planned to hitch and walk my way there.  In the end, I got two lifts without even raising a thumb.  The first ride was from Megumi, a … Continue reading

Posted in Uncategorized | Tagged , | Leave a comment

38 Lake 13: Waving goodbye to clam town

I walked along Jusanko (Lake 13) in the late afternoon.  The calm, shallow waters were filled with clam-catching boats.  The shoreline was lined with blue corrugated-iron huts; all with chimneys, a mound of million clam shells and a neat stack of maki (firewood).   A … Continue reading

Posted in Uncategorized | Tagged , | Leave a comment

37 Jusanko (Lake 13): A forgotten kingdom

Slept in a manga cafe on the bypass, leaving early in the morning to take the 6am train north to Goshogawara.  I took the same journey two years ago in a January blizzard, when the whole Tsugaru plain was carpeted in over a metre of snow, standing behind the grey … Continue reading

Posted in Uncategorized | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

36 Hirosaki: Kingdom of apples

On my first night in apple pie town Hirosaki, the capital of the old kingdom of Tsugaru, I slept in a cubby-hole capsule above a bowling alley.  The capsule hotel was cheap, convenient and comfortable.  As well as dozens of bunk bed-like capsules, the 5th floor hotel also had a … Continue reading

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment