Monthly Archives: November 2015

A bright blue day in Owase

Halfway up the hill to Devilrock, I collapsed on a park bench. The Sun was too strong and my legs and lungs too weak. A steady stream of hikers trickled past me, all Japanese, all with slightly more grey hair … Continue reading

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Kumano Kodo and Hillbilly Poetry

Long walks either fill me with hope or fill me with despair.  Yesterday, walking through the cedar forests of the Kumano, I stumbled into a spring of wonderful ideas, plans to improve absolutely everything about not just my life but … Continue reading

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Steam, mist and dragons: Yunomine Onsen

Yunomine Onsen is a tiny village buried deep in the green forest-covered, dragon-dwelling mountains of Wakayama prefecture. While most foreign visitors come up this high for a hike; most Japanese just come here for a bath and to boil a … Continue reading

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